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Lectures & Workshops |
Magic Fabrics/Special Effects New!
Put simply, magic fabrics give a quilt light and life. Some suggest light coming from below the surface (luminosity) or bouncing across the surface (luster). Others imply that see-through colors overlap to create new color mixtures (transparency). What constitutes a magic fabric? I describe many as “shot with light.” They usually display variations in valuelight areas among darker areas, or light-to-dark gradationsand they typically contain warm colors. Batiks, hand-dyes, and hand-painted fabrics have a dappled quality; some commercial fabrics appear to “smolder,” an illusion that lends depth and warmth to even the simplest quilts.
Twenty-four digital images (I provide the projector), numerous blocks, quilts, garments, and framed pieces. One hour. Fee: $450.
Color! Color! Color! (lecture)
This fast-paced lecture begins with a look at the three color characteristics common to all quilts and garments: value, temperature, and intensity. These terms sound academic, yet they, as much as color itself, are the key to making great quilts. Learn how to use the color wheel to create fresh, unexpected color combinations. Slides of quilts from nationally known quilters are followed by my quilts and a mini fashion show of my garments.
One hour. Slides, color wheel, quilts, and garments. Fee: $450.
Color Camp: A One-day Retreat (workshop)
Do you stress when it’s time to choose colors and fabrics for a new quilt? Do you wish you had a better “color sense”? You need to go on retreat to gain a new perspective. You need to come to Color Camp!
This no-sew workshop based on Christine's new book, The Quilter's Color Club, consists of cut-and-paste color studies, with lots of help from the teacher and group critique of every block. The first three mock-block exercises focus on value (light and dark), temperature (warm and cool), and intensity (bright and dull). These characteristics, more than color itself, determine the impact of a quilt. An overview of the color wheel and a final exercise expose students to this invaluable (and amazing) tool for quilters. It’s lots of creative fun, and you’ll leave “Color Camp” with fresh ideas for working with color. Six hours. Mini lecture, exercises, and critique; sample blocks, quilts, and garments. Fee: $600. Lab fee.
Color Camp (supply list)
- Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat
- Glue stick (make sure it's fresh)
- Fabric for exercises (see below)
- A color wheel, if you already have one. I provide a mini wheel for every student, or you can buy my color wheel [link to “Christine’s Color Wheel” on the books and patterns page] in class ($13). My new color book will also be available in class.
- $3 lab fee
To create the most successful color studies, you'll need a wide variety of fabrics in different colors, values, intensities, and patterns. Bring or buy ¼ yard or larger pieces; scraps are fine if they are at least 9” square.
Bring beautiful fabric! I do not want to hear anyone say, “I didn’t have time, so I just grabbed some fabric from my stash.” You can’t learn about color using a handful of rag-tag fabrics! Spend the time and shop to have a broad selection of great fabrics; you'll have much more fun and success with outstanding fabrics than with ordinary ones. Include both multi-colored prints and fabrics that are predominantly one color, such as tone-on-tone. You can work with solids, but be aware that they don’t always “marry well’ with printed fabrics. Stripes, as you will soon discover, are magical fabrics, so include them too. Also bring a few black-and-white fabrics if you have them.
Hint: I use a lot of mottled or dappled fabrics, especially hand-dyes and batiks, because they add depth and luminosity to a quilt. There are many other fabrics available that are “shot with light,” and they work beautifully.
It's very important to have a good mix of valueslights, mediums, and darksin colors from all around the color wheel. Most of us have plenty of mediums and darks. Lights are harder to come by. Don't go too dark or too light, however; very dark fabrics often read as black, and very light fabrics read as white.
There are twelve colors on the Prang color wheel. Following is a list of these colors, with just a few common names in parentheses to help you visualize what they look like. (In reality, there are many versions of each color.) Try to bring at least one light, medium, and dark for each color.
- Yellow (primary yellow, daffodil)
- Yellow-green (olive, apple green)
- Green (grass green, mint)
- Blue-green (turquoise, teal)
- Blue (primary blue, slate)
- Blue-violet (periwinkle, iris)
- Violet (purple, eggplant)
- Red-violet (magenta, fuchsia)
- Red (primary red, brick)
- Red-orange (terra cotta, salmon)
- Orange (pumpkin, spice)
- Yellow-orange (mango, cheddar)
Organize your fabrics by color. She who brings the most and best-organized fabric wins! I provide a small “fabric library,” arranged by color, for you to use if you get stuck. But you should still shop for and organize your own fabrics. When in doubt, buy and bring more fabric!
Black Opals & Ribbon Candy (workshop)

You’ll see the potential for secondary patterns in other traditional quilt designs after making this quiltguaranteed! The workshop begins with a crash course in colorvalue, temperature, and intensityfollowed by an evaluation of students’ fabrics and step-by-step instructions for making the black-opal units and ribbon-candy segments. We’ll also discuss suitable border fabrics. Six hours. Fee: $600.
Black Opals & Ribbon Candy (supply list)
- Pattern ($6.00; available in class)
- 6" x 12" pieces of 16 different medium-value, intense fabrics for inner triangles
- 6" x 12" pieces of 16 different darker-value, less-intense fabrics for outer triangles
- 3/8 yard of medium-value batik* for background squares
- 2/3 yard of medium-value woven plaid* for background ribbon-candy segments.
- 1¼ yards of medium-value lengthwise stripe* for background ribbon-cand segments. Note: The stripe I used is now available on Kaffe Fassett’s website, www.gloriouscolor.com, item number MUHS-4472, “Blush Multi Haze Stripes.” This quantity, 1¼ yards, is enough for two quilts, so team up with a friend
- ¼ yard of gradated, multicolor fabric for narrow inner border (not needed for workshop)
- 1 1/3 yards of stylized fabric for outer border and binding (not needed for workshop)
*For the batik, woven plaid, and lengthwise strips, you can use other fabrics, as long as they are similar to the values specified.
- Sewing machine with basic sewing supplies
- Rotary equipment
- Thread to blend with your fabrics
- Thangles triangle papers, 4" x 4". Thangles triangle papers are great for this project. They allow you to make just four half-square triangle units from two fabrics, giving you a wide variety of units for your quilt.
Luminosity (workshop)
This dazzling special effect is surprisingly easy to achieve, once you understand a few simple concepts: When you surround a relatively small area of warm, intense color with a larger area of cooler, less-intense, darker color, your quilt will appear to glow, as if light and warmth are coming from behind.
This one-day workshop begins with a crash course in color, followed by evaluation of your fabrics to ensure success. Then you’ll begin cutting and piecing your blocks. Along the way, I’ll have lots of tips for making the process easier and more accurate. I’ll also go over how to cut and attach the “spinning” borders. Six hours. Fee: $600.
Luminosity (supply list)
Luminaria pattern ($4.50; available in class)
Fabrics
Your fabric choices are what make this quilt work. Gather:
- Warm, intense colors for the centers of the blocks. On the color wheel, warm intense colors are brilliant yellow-green, yellow, yellow-orange, orange, red-orange, and red.
- Cooler, less-intense, darker colors for the strips surrounding the center. On the color wheel, the cool colors are green through violet.
Batiks, hand-dyes, and mottled fabrics that appear to be “shot with light” work beautifully. Study the photo of my quilt to help you choose your fabrics. If you look at the image, you’ll see many batiks, but I used a few prints and stripes, too.
For the blocks, you’ll need:
- 16 different squares, each 6½ inches, of warm, intense fabrics.
- 1/8 yard each of 16 cooler, less-intense, darker fabrics.
If you want to simplify my quilt, you’ll need ¼ yard each of eight warm, intense fabrics and ¼ yard each of eight cooler, less-intense, darker fabrics. With these amounts, your fabrics will repeat more often in the quilt and the effect will not be as complex.
A very important note: For your cooler, less-intense, darker fabrics, don’t go too dark or too dull. You need a few brighter, medium-dark fabrics to give your quilt life. If your fabrics that surround the center squares are all drab, your quilt will be drab too; this is the most common mistake students make in choosing their fabrics.
For the border and binding, you’ll need
- 1 3/4 yds. fabric for borders and straight-cut binding. To make bias-cut binding, you’ll need a total of 2 1/2 yds. You won’t need these fabrics for class.
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Basic sewing supplies, including thread that blends with your fabrics
- Rotary ruler, cutter, and mat, A second ruler (such as 6 x 12 inches, or 4 x 14 inches) is very helpful for “whacking” the basic blocks. A 17-inch rotating mat is also very helpful, but not required.
Elegant Circles (workshop)

The workshop begins with a discussion of the role of value in creating depth and volume in a quilt design, followed by an overview of the process for creating the circles, shadows, and background triangle squares. A step-by-step demo of basting the fabric circles using an iron and appliquéing the circles and shadows to the background makes these techniques doable for all skill levels. Six hours. Fee: $600.
Elegant Circles (supply list)
- Pattern ($9; available in class)
- Circle fabric
Choose fabrics with medium- or large-scale patterns. The circle fabrics should contrast in value with the dark shadow and the background fabrics (below). You’ll need enough fabric to cut nine different 6-inch circlesbut bring more fabrics so you’ll have a variety to audition. Don’t cut any circles ahead of time.
- Background triangle fabric
My quilt uses two different kinds of fabric for the background triangles: hand-painted fabrics from Elin Noble in the lower left of each block, and slightly variegated solids in the upper right of each block. The most important aspect of your background fabrics is that they contrast with each other and with the patterned circles. Using just two fabrics, you’ll need 1/2 yard of fabric for the lower left triangles and 1/2 yard for the upper right triangles. Using a variety of fabrics, you’ll need enough to cut nine triangles for the lower left and nine triangles for the upper right. Translation: bring plenty of fabric!
- Shadow fabric
I used a subtle charcoal-and-black print, not a solid black. A subtle pattern with some lighter areas keeps the shadows from looking heavy. You’ll need 1/4 yard.
- Border fabric
Strive for a fabric that contrasts with the blocks enough to make them read as separate from the border. You’ll need 1/2 yard. If using a different fabric for each border, you’ll need 1/4 yard of each.
- Corner squares
You’ll be able to cut your corner squares from the triangle fabrics.
- Sewing machine with basic supplies, plus a zigzag or appliqué foot. (You need a foot that allows you to clearly see the needle piercing the fabric.)
- Rotary equipment
- Sharp fabric scissors
- 1½ yards of freezer paper
- Neutral thread to appliqué the circles. I used a 60-weight neutral gray that blends, but you can use monofilament.
The key to happiness in making this sweatshirt jacket is using the right fabrics for your sweatshirt. The class begins with a group evaluation of each student's fabrics to learn what will work, what won't, and why. (You should bring more than the number of fabrics indicated, to have a broad selection to choose from.) Once you settle on the fabrics, you'll cut an assortment of bias strips, glue-baste them to the sweatshirt foundation, and stitch close to the raw edges of each strip. You'll then surface-stitch your sweatshirt as much or as little as you like. Before the class ends, I'll show you how to make the chenille circles and attach the rick-rack and binding. (I'll have the rick-rack, from Rainbow Resource, available at the time of the class; see below.) See Gallery.
Six hours. Fee: $600.Happy Jacket (supply list)
Note: Do not prewash your sweatshirt or your fabrics. Do remove the ribbing on the sweatshirt, and take it apart at the side and underarm seams so you can lay it flat.
- Happy Jacket pattern ($4.50, available in class)
- Sweatshirt two sizes larger than your desired finished size. Make sure it has standard, not raglan, sleeves. Before the workshop, remove the sweatshirt ribbing at the bottom and the cuffs (leave the neck ribbing as is) and take the sweatshirt apart at the side and underarm seams so you can lay the garment out flat.
- Twelve fabrics (at least) roughly similar in value (lightness or darkness) to your sweatshirt. You want the fabrics to "read" as separate strips, yet not jump out from the sweatshirt. Avoid batiks or other tightly woven fabrics for the circles; they don't "ruffle" enough to create chenille.
I used a few stripes and one batik, but most of the fabrics were Kaffe Fassett fat quarters, each of which will yield at least one 25-inch-long bias strip, enough length to go all the way down the front of my sweatshirt. I had to "piece" other strips, placing their angled ends a bit apart on the sweatshirt. The shorter strips are perfect for the sleeves. You'll need ¾ yard of fabric for the bias binding (plan to use this fabric for the chenille circles and sweatshirt strips, too).- Rotary equipment. A 24- by 36-inch mat and 6- by 24-inch ruler make easy work of cutting the bias strips.
- Basting glue. I used Roxanne's Glue-Baste-It!
- A walking foot is very helpful. If you don't have one, you'll need to pin the strips securely before stitching.
- Plates or circle templates to cut the chenille circles. (My small circles are 5 inches, the large ones 9 inches.)
- All-cotton thread to blend with your fabrics and sweatshirt. You'll need several standard-size spools (they can be different colors) or one large spool.
- Scissors or chenille cutting tool
- Monofilament thread for attaching the rick-rack.
- Rick-rack or other trim. I used a wonderful ½-inch hand-dyed rick-rack ($3.50/yd.) from Charlene Younker of Rainbow Resource, (707) 937-0431, rainbow@mcn.org.
Amaze your family! Fool your friends! They will be very impressed when you show them a block or quilt that incorporates the illusion of transparent color. In this special effect, one color appears to lie over another, and where the two colors overlap, a third color is formed. It takes "just-right" fabrics for successful transparencies, but when it works, wow! We start with a crash course in color, then make three simple mock-blocks, followed by two more challenging ones. Six hours. Mini-lecture, exercises, critique, sample blocks. Fee: $600.
Transparency (supply list)
- The Quilter's Color Club (optional; available in class)
- Rotary mat, ruler, and cutter (treat yourself to a new blade)
- Two regular-size glue sticks or one large one (make sure they're fresh)
- Fabric
You’ll need a wide variety of fabrics, from all around the color wheel. Following is a list of the twelve colors on the wheel with just a few common names in parentheses to help you visualize what they look like. (In reality, there are many versions of each color.) Try to bring at least one light, medium, and dark for each color listed here: you’ll have greater success (and more fun) with lots of fabrics!Yellow (primary yellow, daffodil)
Yellow-green (olive, apple green)
Green (grass green, mint)
Blue-green (turquoise, teal)
Blue (primary blue, slate)
Blue-violet (periwinkle, iris)
Violet (purple, eggplant)
Red-violet (magenta, fuchsia)
Red (primary red, brick)
Red-orange (terra cotta, salmon)
Orange (pumpkin, spice)
Yellow-orange (mango, cheddar)Hints:
- Avoid fabrics that are very light or very dark. They tend to read as white or black. Organize your fabrics by color. When in doubt, bring more fabric!
- In addition to the colors on the color wheel, bring some multicolor fabrics, in particular pieces where the colors look a bit mixed, swirled, or otherwise combined in a contemporary way (as opposed to a realistic floral, for example.)
- It's best if multicolor fabrics contain only a few colors.
- Fabrics that are mottled, dappled, or "shot with light" are wonderful for creating transparencies. Batiks and hand-dyes have lots of potential, but any fabric that has the sensation of light coming from behind or shining through from above has possibilities. Having said that, avoid batiks that look "muddy" and dense; they aren't effective in transparencies.
I provide the printed sheets for the mock-block exercises and a mini color wheel, or you can buy my color wheel ($13) in class. If you already have a color wheel, bring it. I also provide a “fabric library,” arranged by color, for you to use if you get stuck.

Fabric collage and surface stitching combine to create a sophisticated vest that makes the most of color, pattern, and texture. The workshop begins with examples of harmonious (but not matching) fabrics for collage. Then the fun begins: you'll develop your composition on your foundation fabric, then pin the pieces and anchor the raw edges. I'll demonstrate surface stitching and go over the how-tos of finishing. My Kimono Collage and Crossover Collage vest patterns will be available in class, or bring your own favorite pattern.
Six hours. Fee: $600.Collage Vest (supply list)
- Sewing machine
- Vest pattern
- Foundation fabric
You'll need enough to cut out your vest front and back pieces plus 1/3 yard. (You must cut the foundation pieces with an extra 1 1/2-2 inches on each edge.) Choose a fabric you like a lot because it becomes the inside of your vest. If you plan to buy my pattern, you'll need fabric to total approximately twice the measurement from the high point on your shoulder to your hip bone, plus the 1/3 yard.
- Collage fabric
- 1/3 yard of main fabric
- 1/4 yard of 8 to 10 other fabrics
- 1/4 yard of fabric for binding (can be your main fabric). For bias binding, 3/4 yard or more is best.
- Scraps of 4 to 6 accent fabrics
- Rotary equipment
- Scissors
- Basting glue
- All-cotton neutral thread that blends with your fabrics to stitch the collage pieces to the foundation. You don't want this thread to show; a medium gray or beige usually works.
- All-cotton thread in a variety of colors for the surface stitching. For one vest, I usually use five or six spools of thread.
Hint: Choose fabrics that contrast with each other. They may have a common color or a similar "feel," but if they are over-coordinated in color, your vest will look like one piece of fabric (and you will be disappointed!). Surface stitching has a tendency to blend and blur the differences, so when in doubt, opt for fabrics with more, rather than less, contrast in:
- pattern scale (size of the motifs in the pattern; include small-, medium-, and large-scale fabrics)
- value (some light, some medium, some dark fabrics)
- temperature (some warm, some cool fabrics)
- pattern density (some open, some dense fabrics)
For your accent scraps, choose fabrics with more intense color.